Machine for sewing on buttons



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B. WOODWARD. MACHINE POR SEWING 0N BUTTONS.

No. 390,148. I Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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No. 390,148. Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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MACHINE FOR SEWING 0N BUTTONS.

No. 390,148. Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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No. 390.148. Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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-No. 390,148. Patented Sept. 25., 1888.

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' E.'WO0DWARD MACHINE FOR SEWING 0N BUTTONS.

No. 390,148. Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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MACHINE FOR SEWING 0N BUTTONS.

No. 390,138. Patented Sept. 25, 1888.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ERASTUS WOODVVARD, OF SOMERVILLE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE MORLEY BUTTON SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.-

MACHINE FOR SEWING ON BUTTONS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 390,148, dated September 25, 1 888.-

Application filed September 13, 1886. Serial No. 213,376. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ERASTUS WOODWARD, of Somerville, in the county of Middlesex'and State of Massachusetts, a citizen of the United States, have invented a new and useful Irnprovement in Machines for Sewing on Buttons, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of'thisspecification, in explaining its nature.

The invention relates to a machine for sewing on buttons having projecting eyes to fabrics,preferab]y by means of two double-thread ]ocked stitches extending from the under side of the fabric through the eye of the button and on the line upon which the buttons are set, each of these double thread stitches being locked upon the under side of the fabric as it is taken. It is in many respects an improve ment upon the inventions described in Patents Nos. 313,947, 343,948, and 343,949. It employs a barbed needle carried or supported by a needle bar held by a swinging or vibrating head, which is reciprocated upon diverging lines for the purpose of forming the stitches, and provided With a traversing movement for the purpose of feeding the material and attached buttons. The needle is reciprocated to form the stitch through the material to which the button is to be attached and slightly in advance of the eye of the button or of the buttonholding device to engage the thread, which is carried by a spool held in a reciprocating shuttle., The needle upon taking the thread from a caused to move upward through the fabric, backward, and downward through the eye of :the button, to present the looped thread to the loopholding device, and to the shuttle, which is immediately operated or moved to pass through the loop. The needle, without the thread, then moves upward through the eye of the button, forward, and downward through the material upon. the same line as that of its first downward movement. It again engages the thread presented to it by the thread-carrier, draws it upward through the material, moves back ward and again downward through the eye of the button, again presents a loop to the shuttle, which passes through it, and comthread-carricr of peculiar construction is then A pletes the second stitch. The needle upon its fourth reciprocation, instead of lifting from the eye of the button and while yet in the eye of the button, moves forward farther than the distance or point to which it is moved in taking its thread, and carries the button and fabric with it any distance required for spacing the buttons. It then lifts from the eye of the button and returns to its original position, again moves downward,and engages the thread preparatory to immediatelysewing on the next button in order. The work is held upon the horn or work-support by a clamp or presserfoot, except during the forward movement of the material or fabric and attached button by the needle.

In thedrawings, Figure 1 is a view of the machine in front elevation. Fig. 2 is a plan view thereof. Fig. 3 is a view in elevation of the end at the left of the front. Fig. 4 is a detail view in perspective, enlarged, to represent the action of the upper threaddrawer, and also showing a portion of the work-arm, the needle, and a part of the button-feeding mechanism. Fig. 5 is a view in elevation of 7 the end at the right of the front of the machine. Fig. 6 is a view in rear elevation. Fig. 7 is a sectional elevation. Fig. 8 represents in perspective, enlarged, aportion of the worksupport or horn and various of the 83 stitch-forming devices. Fig. 9 is a view of the same parts, representing them in a different position. Fig. 10 is a detail view showing the shuttle in the act of taking a loop from the needle. Fig. 11 is a view in perspective 8 of one of the covering-plates to the shuttlerace, inverted, to represent a block or pivot used in connection with the under threaddrawer, to which reference is hereinafter made. Figs. 12, 13, and 14 are views illustrating the construction of the mechanism for operating the upper thread-holder. Fig. 15 is a viewin perspective, enlarged, of the devices for holding and presenting the buttons to the needle or stitch-forming devices. Fig. 16 is a view 5 in perspective of the thread-carrier or device for presenting the thread to the needle. Fig. 17 is a view in elevation and plan illustrating the devices or mechanism for rotating or tu rning the button-carrier. Fig. 18 is aview illus- 10o teams t-rating in. section and elevation a portion of the button-feeding mechanism. Fig. 19 is a sectional view to illustrate the construction of the locking device for holding the button in the button-carrier as it is being moved from the end of the chute to a position at theend of the needle. Fig. 20 is a view illustrating the position of various of the cams and their con nections, to which reference will be hereinafter made. Fig. 21 represents in elevation the devices for reciprocating the needle-bar and providing it with a period of rest while the fabric is being fed. Fig. 22 is a view of the same parts, representingthem in the position which they occupy when the needle is about to be moved to feed the fabric. Fig. 23 represents in elevation cams for operating the thread-carrier and needle-bar. Figs. 24 and 25 are detail views of the needle and its pointed support. Fig/26 is a vertical section through the needle-bar and head supporting the same. It also represents the bar for carrying the pointed needle-support. Fig. 27 shows the mechanism for providing the head carrying the needle-bar and the loop engaging or holding hook in the shuttle-race with traversing movements. Fig. 28 represents the same parts in the position which they occupy at the end of the traversing movement of said head and hook. Fig. 29 is a view in elevation of the needle, to show especially the form of its point. Fig. 30 is a detail view illustrating the cam and mechanism for operating the lower threaddrawer. Fig. 31 is a view of the cam and parts for operating the device for presenting the thread to the needle. Figs. 32 and 33 illustrate in plan view the operation of the lower thread-drawer. Fig. 34 is a view in perspective of the shuttlecarrier. Fig. 35 is a View, enlarged, of theshuttle, aportion of the shell being broken out to expose the interior. Fig. 36 is a rear elevation thereof, enlarged. Fig. 37 is a longitudinal section on a horizontal plane through the carrier and shuttle. Fig. 38 is a vertical crosssection taken through the driving-post of the shuttle-carrier. Fig. 39 is a detail elevation showing the presserfoot-lifting mechanism; and Fig. 40 isa sectional elevation on line 40 40, Fig. 39.

l A is the frame of the machine. It has the broad base Ct, an upwardly-extending section or bracket, a, cast therewith, which supports the shafts, and studs supporting the various cams, levers, and other devices hereinafterreferred to. It also has an arm, at, extending forward from the bracket a,whic h carries the needle-bar and other mechanism.

A is the needle. It has a barb, a at its lower end and a point, a, which is out of line with the center of the needle, and has a long taper or bevel, a, upon one side for the purposes hereinafter indicated. (See Fig. 29.) The needle is carried or secured to the needlebar a, and this needle-bar isheld or supported by a head, alwhich is pivoted at a (see Figs. 2 and 6,) near the upper end of the head, to

completed.

the arm at. The needle bar or rod is reciprocated vertically by means of the crank a on the shaft a, (see Fig. 1,) which is driven by the spur-geara on the main shaft B. (See Fig. 5.) This gear a meshes into a smaller gear, a, carried by the shaft a; The shaft has suitable bearings in the section a of the frame, and also in a brackehu, which is bolted to the base-plate of the machine. The crank a is connected with the needle-bar by means ofthe short pitman or link a and the longlever a pivoted at a (see Fig. 1) to an arm or support, a", (see Figs. 2, 20, and 21,) which is made movable for the reasons and by mechanism hereinafter indicated. The outer end of the lever a is connected with the needle bar bythe link a. This crank movementgives the needle a continuous reciprocating vertical movement, except during the feeding of the fabric after the button has been sewed on, when the movement is interrupted and converted into a horizontal movement.

It is necessary that the needle-bar and needle should be reciprocated, first, so that the needle shall pass through thefabric upon a line in advance of the point where the button is to be attached, or outside of the eye of the button, for the purpose of taking thread, and at the end of this reciprocation the bar and needle must be returned to a position to bring the needle over the eye of the button which is being fed to it, and upon the needles second reciprocation itshould pass through the eye of the button and the fabric back of the point where it first entered the material. The loop is then taken by the shuttle and one stitch The needle then lifts and is returned to its original position, and is again reciprocated through the fabric in advance of the button to again engage the thread, and it is at the end of thisthird reciprocation immediately returned to the position over the eye of the button, and it is again moved downward throughit, carrying the thread with it, which is again taken by the shuttle and a second stitch formed. The needle-bar and needle then at the end of the first half of the fourth reciprocation,without lifting, move for ward to feed the fabric and attached button, the Work-clamp being at that instant released sufficiently to allow such movement to take place, and during this feed movement of the needle-bar and needle the needle is not lifted. In other words, its reciprocation is stopped during this feedinginterval; but at the end of the feed movement it is moved upwardly and backwardly to its original position preparatory to taking thread for the attaching of the next or second button. These traversing movements of the needle and needle-bar are ob-' tained by swinging the block or head a by means of the cam-groove to, Figs. 27 and 28, in a cam-disk on the main shaft B, the lever a having a cam-pin, a,which enters the camgroove a, and a long link, a The lever a is pivoted at a to a movable support or lever, a flwhich is pivoted at a to the section a of the frame, and which is movable by a earn, as will be hereinafter indicated, to move the fulcrum-point of the lever a during the time the needle is feeding the fabric and the attached button, and for the purpose of increasing the throw or movement which it is necessary to give the needle bar block or head at that time.

The cam a, lever a, and link a give the needle bar block or head the traversing or transferring movements necessary to change the line of movement of the needle-bar; but to provide the block or head with the additional movement necessary for feeding the fabric and attached button I employ the lever a, Carrying the fulcrunrpoint of the lever a and this lever a is stationary, excepting during the time the needle is used for feeding the fabric, when it is caused to be moved by the cam-groove a in the cam-disk a on the shaft or, which is connected with the main shaft B by means of the small spur-gear a on the main shaft and by the large spur gear a on the shaft a.

The bell-crank lever a, the lower arm of which carries the fulcrum of the lever a is operated at the proper intervals to give the long horizontal or feeding movements. to the needle-bar head a by the hell-crank lever a, the lower arm of which latter has a pin entering the camgroove a of the disk a, the upper arm of the said lever a, and also the upper arm of the lever a being provided with slots a, (see Fig. 6,) in which is arranged an adjustable or sliding block, a, which forms a connection between said levers. (See Figs. 2, 6, 20, 27, and 28.) The block a is carried by a pin, a, between which and the lever a is interposed the washera. It will be obvious that by loosening the said nut and changing the position of the adjustable block a the throw of the lever a may be varied, as may be desired, to regulate the extent of the feeding movement given to the needle bar head a It will thus be apparent that by means of the above-described mechanism the needlebar head has regular traversing or horizontal movements imparted to it from the cam a, for the purpose of reciprocating the needle later ally to cause it to form alternate stitches inside and outside of the eye of a button, and after a predetermined number of such stitches have been formed and the button properly secured the said needle-bar head is given a long hori zontal movement from the canrgroove a when the needle is in the work, for the purpose of feeding the work along preparatory to sewing on the next button. It is necessary, also, that the needle-bar and needle should not be moved vertically during the time that the needle is feeding the fabric forward; and although the needle-bar and needle are reciprocated by a crank and lever, yet I am enabled to obtain this stopping of the reciprocation ofthe needlebar and needle by moving the fulcrum-point of the lever so that it takes up the movement of the crank and prevents it from being transmitted by the lever to the needle-bar. This is accomplished by moving the support or arm a? of the fulcrum or pivot a of the lever a by means of the cam-groove a(see Fig. 21) in the side of the gear-wheel a on the shaft a. This cam-groove a is connected with the arm a" by. means of the arm a, bearing a cam pin, a, which enters the camgroove a and the end of which connects by means of a stud or shaft, a, (see Fig. 21,) which has a hearing at a (see Fig. 2) in the part a of the frame, with the outer end of the arm or support a", the connecting-stud a and the arms a and a" forming a bell-crank lever.

The cam a is so timed that at the end of the firsthalfof thefourth reciprocation of thence dle bar the fulcrum a of the needle-bar lever a is moved downward, and this neutralizes the upward movement which the crank is giving the rear end of the lever, so that the needle-bar and lever are not reciprocated during the forward feeding movement which is then taking place. Immediately upon the end of the feeding movement the cam acts to return the fulcrum a"? to its original position, and the needle and needlebar complete the last half of their fourth reciprocation and are returned, as above described, to a point or line upon which they are reciprocated to take thread for the sewing on of the next button.

I have now described the mechanism for giving the needlethe several movements which it has in relation to the shuttle and in relation to the eye of the button, and which it also has for feeding the fabric; but before proceeding to describe the button feeding mechanism and the stitchforming devices I would say that the shank of the needle is supported by an arm, A (see Figs. 24, 25, and 26,) which has a curved supporting piece, a, which sur rounds-or very nearly surrounds the shank of the needle. This arm A is fastened to a slideplate, to, which moves in ways in the swinging needle-bar head or block'behind the needle-bar. its office is fourfold, for it not only operates to support the needle, but it also has a point, a, which serves as a cover to the barb of the needle, and which operates to cover it after it has been drawn or moved upward with the thread,and while it is transferring and moving down ward and until it has entered the eye of the button. The point further serves to enter the eye of the button in advance of the needle to center it and bring it in line with the needle. It further operates to remain in the eye of the button after the button has been sewed on during the feeding movement, and until theheedle withdraws therefrom, in order that during such withdrawal of the needle the barb or book may he covered, and so as to prevent it from engaging the eye of the button as it is being withdrawn. These movements are given the bar a,s upporting the arm A, by means of the stud or pin a, (see Figs. 1, 26, and 27,) which projects from the upper 'end of the bar in line with the needle-bar a, so that upon the upper part of the upward rot movement of the needlebar the upper end contact with the stop a. (See Fig. 6.) These movements, however, are not all that are necessary for providing the point of the arm A with the functions above indicated, for upon the movement of the needle to feed the fabric and for the purpose of shielding its barb and the eye of the attached button it is necessary that the arm should move down farther than it is permitted to move by the stop a. (See Fig. 6.) To permit this additional throw or movement,the stop is provided with a surface, a which is somewhat lower than the surface a, and the surface a is made of such a width that upon the swinging of the needle-bar block or head during the feeding of the fabric the stud or pin rides from the said surface e onto the lower surface, a, so that the arm A is moved or drawn downward by the spring a sufficientiy to permit the point to enter the eye of the attached or sewed on button before the needle is withdrawn therefrom.

It will be seen that the barb is covered and the needle is supported from the time it clears the work-plate and fabric upon its upward movement until the point a of the support A has entered the eye of the button, when the point becomes stationary until the needle lifts, when it lifts with the needle and comes forward with it, covering the barb until it again enters the throat for the second stitch, and upon the upward movement of the needle from the fabric the barb is again covered by the point and the point operated to enter the eye of the button in advance of the needle, as before. Upon the fourth reciprocation of the needle the arm carrying the support A moves forward horizontally with the needle and is dropped to its lowest position or level, so that it remains in the eye of the needle during this forward feeding movement. It is given a dropping movement duringthis forward movement, because the button is drawn by it and the needle from the button-holder, and as the button-holder is higher than the work-support the button is caused to drop somewhat upon leaving its holder, and the point, in order to still maintain its position in the eye of the button, must have a corresponding dropping movement given to it. At the end of the feed movement the point remains in the eye of the button until the barb of the needle has been lifted above the eye, and it then operates to act as a shield in preventing the barb of the needle from engaging the eye of the button as it is withdrawn.

The button feed or supply 'mechanism is automatic in its action and furnishes a con tinuous supply of buttons in regular and successive order to the needle, with their eyes brought into position to receive the needles, and each button is held in this position while it is attached. It comprises the hopper C, ar-

ranged to receive and hold a large number of buttons in bulk, and they are fed therefrom into the chute or conveyer c and arranged therein in order for attaching, substantially as described in Patent No. 343,949. At the end of the chute 0 there is a button receiver and carrier, 0, (see Fig. 19,) which comprises a holder or socket, 0, (see Figs. 4 and 15,) of a size to receive the head of the button, and having a recess, 0 for receiving the shank of the eye of the button. The carrier alsohas a latch or locking arm, 0*, arranged to be moved upon the upper portion of the head of the button to hold it in place. This carrier is upon the end of a shaft, 0, and is given a quarter-revolution by means of the gear 0 (see Figs. 17 and 19) upon the said shaft c and the lever 0, which is pivoted at c, and which is rcciprocated or moved at the desired interval by the cam groove 0 in the cam-disk 0 upon the shaft 0 which is supported by means of a bracket, 0, (see Fig. 1,) bolted to the base a of the frame, and is positively revolved by means of the gear-wheel c thereon and the geanwheel 0 upon the extension 0 of the shaft a, which meshes therewith. The lever c has at its end a-short segment, 0", which meshes or engages the teeth of the gear 0 The button-carrier is arranged so that it occupies a position at the end of the chute a, so that when in that position it can receive automatically from the chute one button with its eye extending laterally between the two arms which form the recess for receiving it, and

while it is in this position thelatch or buttonlocking device 0 is held back so as to expose the full opening to the carrier, by means of the rod c, to the end of which the locking arm 0 is secured, (see Fig. 19,) and which is movable horizontally in the tubular shaft 0* by means of the lever c, pivoted at c, and the face-cam c of the cam-disk c. The lever 0 has a canr roll which bears against the face cam, and the other end of the lever has a loose connection with or bears against the end of the rod 0 The lever is adapted to be moved positively by the face-camto push the lock or latch c outward to open the socket, and the cam-roll is kept in contact with the face-cam by means of the spring 0 (See Fig. 2.) The socket having received the button from the chute, the end of the lever c" is moved outward to release the rod 0", and a spring, 50 (see Fig. 19,) serves to automatically move the rod c and close the latch or lock upon the head of the button. This closing movement is immediately followed by the partial revolution of the carrier, the mechanism operating its shaft turning the carrier a quarterrevolutiou,which turns the button, of course, a quarter-revolution and brings itseye in line with the arm A and the needle,which are at thatinstant moved into said position and are descending while the button is being moved by its carrier downward and outward into a position to expose its eye. The carrier and chute are otherwise so shaped that upon this forward movement of the carrier a section thereof behind the socket serves to close the chute and keep the buttons held therein until the button has been drawn from the socket and it is returned to receive the next one in order.

In order that the button after it has been attached may leave the carrier, it is necessary that the cam and lever for unlatching or un-' locking it should be operated immediately be fore or at the very beginning of the feed movement of the fabric, so that the locking-arm c shall bemoved away from the socket sufliciently to permit the attaching button to be moved therefrom.

The mechanism for forming the stitch comprises a number of elements or devices,whic-h will now be described.

D is an arm or horn projecting laterally from the section a of the frame, to which itis bolted. It supports the work-plate d, (see Figs. 2 and 4,) which has a long slot or throat, (1, formed therein, and it has also the roughened or serrated surface (1 parallel with the throat, and upon which the fabric is held clamped during the sewing by the presser-foot D,which is carried or supported upon the end of the frame C of the button-feeding mechanism, and this frame is pivoted to the shaft 0 so that the presser-foot is held in place to some extent by the weight of this frame.

The presser-foot D is lifted at proper intervals to permit of the feeding of the work by means of the cam projection D on the camdisk D, said cam projection engaging a rollerstud, d", at the lower end of an arm, d of a bellcrank lever consisting ofrthe arms d (i said lever being pivoted on a stud, d, supported by the bracket or frame. a. The forward end of the arm d of the said bell-crank lever is forked to engage a pin, 21, attached to a vertically-movable bar or plate, d sliding in ways in the bracket or arm a, (see Figs. 39 and 40,) said bar or plate d being connected by the angle-plate 22 and screws d with the pivoted frame 0', to which the presser-foot D is attached. The spring (2 servesto return the parts to their normal positions after being lifted by the cam projection D and to hold the presser foot in yielding contact with the work. The bellcrank lever may have arearwardly-extending arm, (1 Figs. 2 and 39, which can be pressed upon to lift the presserfoot when desired.

The arm D has a raceway, E, in which the shuttle E is reciprocated, and this raceway is covered by plates 0 c, the upper surfaces of which form continuations of the work-plate. (See Fig; 4.)

The shuttle E is provided with the bobbin e,which is held in place by a support, e, and spring-latch e. The thread from the bobbin passes through an eye, 6 in the shuttle-cavity, thence over-the tension-bar c, then through a yielding eye, e and through the shuttle-eye a The shuttle also has its forward end or head, 0", (see Fig. 8,) provided with a sharp steal point, 6", which takes the threador loop from the needle, and it also has immediately behind its head a shoulder, e, for receiving the stud or post 6 of the shuttle-carrier s, so that the shuttle is driven by its head, as will hereinafter appear. I do not, however, make any claim to this shuttle in this application, the same being embraced by my application No. 213,375, filed September 13, 1886.

The shuttle-carrier e comprises a metal plate of suitable length and width to 7 receive the shuttle and play in the race, and which moves in suitable guides. It is reciprccated by mean-s of the crank 6 (see Fig. 7) on the main shaft B and the pitman 'e. It has also thepost 6, above mentioned,which is arranged to project upward behind the shoulder e" at the head of the shuttle, as above referred to. The said shuttle-carrier is also provided with a needle-guide plate or post, E, (see Fig. 9,)

which is located in front of the point of the shuttle, and which is somewhatinclined onits inner side. This inclined reciprocating needle-guide is forthe purpose of preventing the needle from being sprung outward, so that the said needle,when in its lowermost position, will bein proper place to insure the engage ment of the point of the shuttle with the loop of needle-thread.

In order that the shuttle may be held against the wall or faceplate c" of the race while it is taking and passing through the loop, I have arranged in the end of the raceway a spring, E (see .Fig. 8,) which bears upon the outer or rounded surface of the shell of the shuttle while it is in this part of the race taking the loop. In order that the thread and loop may be properly held for engagement by the shuttle, I have arranged aloop engaging and holding point, F, which comprises an arm having a hook,f, and a recess,f, formed thereon, ar-

ranged to project slightly into the raceway and slightly toward the direction in which the thread is moved by the shuttle. Upon the downward movement of the needle with the thread the shuttle-point immediately engages the loop and opens or exposes it, moving it, of course, forward while so doing. This brings the inner thread, or that thread upon the flat side of the shuttle, into the recessf and behind the hook f, which is then stationary, and this holds the loop below or upon a line with the point of the shuttle, so that the loopis not dragged by the shuttle as it comes forward, but is held in that position while the shuttle passes through it. moves forward after it has passed down through the eye of the button the second time to de liver the thread of the second stitch or the second loop to the shuttle, and as it moves in the race to feed the fabric before the shuttle has passed through the loop, it is necessary upon this forward movement of the needle to also move the hook F with the needle, so that the relative position of the thread or loop in relation to the hook, needle, and shuttle can not be changed during this feeding movement of the fabric and the formation of the second IIO As, however, the needle j 

